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Traveling in San'in
Hope you have exciting weekend breaks planned. For our adventurous readers looking for a new experience, this issue will give you glimpses of an unfamiliar Japan. We’re taking you to the San'in region, an ancient area steeped in countless myths. |
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Mt. Daisen, Tottori Prefecture ©Tottori Pref. |
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Most people are not familiar with the term San'in. To explain, Japan is divided up into regions, Tokyo and Yokohama for example are part of the Kanto region, and the San'in region is Tottori and Shimane prefecture.
This part of Japan is superbly beautiful. The landscapes are amazing, there's varied geology topography and nature, with a rich history and is culturally important. Why? Because for most of Japan's long history, its exchange with the outside world was conducted mainly with or through the Asian continent. The Sea of Japan's coast is where the action was. In Japan's mythology, this is where it all happened, where the country of Japan originated.
It is easy to get to San'in. There are flights from Tokyo Haneda airport and you can go by train. If you're visiting Kyoto or Hiroshima you're already close to the San'in region and can travel a few hours through beautiful countryside with a Japan Rail pass to get there.
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Izumo Ōyashiro, Shimane prefecture
The stage of mythology
One of the main attractions in San'in is definitely the Izumo Ōyashiro, commonly known as the Izumo Taisha Grand Shrine. It is one of the oldest, most important, and mysterious shrines in Japan. The deity enshrined is Okuninushi-no-Kami, the creator of the lands of Japan. Izumo Ōyashiro is also known for its matchmaking blessings.
Legend says that every 10th month in the old calendar, all the 8 million deities of Japan would gather in Izumo to hold discussions and make all kinds of arrangements for worldly matters – not just who will marry whom, but also who will get what job, and so on.
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Credit：Hall for sacred dances |
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Even today, rituals are held at the shrine to welcome the deities from all around the country. The 10th month in the old calendar is known as ‘the month without gods’ as they are all away from home. On the other hand, it’s ‘the month with gods’ in Izumo because all the gods have gathered here.
Oshimenawa, the massive straw rope used for ritual purification that hangs in front of the Hall of Sacred Dances always amazes people.
It is the largest in Japan and is about 13 meters long and weighs 5.2 tons.
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If you're interested in architecture or mythology, combining your visit to the shrine with the nearby Shimane Museum of Ancient Izumo is highly recommended. It has neat details that you might miss if you only went to see the shrine.
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Oki Islands
A UNESCO Global Geopark and Japan’s best-kept secret
In the early summer of 2008, a university student visiting Oki for a solo geological survey discovered fossilized crocodile teeth under a substrate that is about 20 million years old.
The conclusion that "there were crocodiles in Oki" suggests that there was a lake environment suitable for crocodiles in Oki in the past. But how could it be? Oki is an "island" floating in the Sea of Japan, not a "lake".
However, it is this very phenomenon that hides the secret of the birth of the Japanese islands and the Sea of Japan.
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Oki is a group of 4 inhabited and around 180 small uninhabited islands located in the Sea of Japan roughly 50km north of Shimane Peninsula, and can be accessed by air or sea.
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You will find one of the most spectacular, breathtaking views in Japan here. The majestic Kuniga Coast landscape was created 6.3-5.3 million years ago by volcanic activity, and by violent north-west winds and waves from the Sea of Japan that eroded the igneous rock. To this day, coastal erosion continues.
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The Oki Islands isn’t just a place where you can see precious geological heritage. It is a place that tells the story of the land, the “geohistory” of the islands created over millions of years.
The best way to explore Oki Islands is to immerse yourselves with the surroundings: by trekking, kayaking or cycling. That way, you can experience the rich and diverse nature while enjoying the history, culture, and interactions with the locals.
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Mt. Daisen, Tottori prefecture
An unspoiled sacred mountain revered since ancient times
As early as the 8th century, the old Izumo province's local gazetteer, "Izumo no Kuni Fudoki", mentions Daisen as "the mountain where great gods reside".
Over time, Mount Daisen flourished as an influential training center for mountain asceticism. In its heydays, the mountain was dotted with more than 100 temples and fortified with over 3000 monk soldiers.
Many temples vanished, and today the most significant remaining structure is not a temple but a shrine, the Ogamiyama-jinja.
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Summer Opening Ritual of Mt. Daisen
A torch procession is held in Daisen every year in early June to pray for a safe hiking season.
With sunset, purified sacred fire is transferred from the shrine. Walking inside the forest, surrounded by a canopy of trees, the light from thousands of torches illuminates the tunnel, making it look truly mystical. Everyone is invited to participate with advanced registration.
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At 1709 meters, it is an instant landmark from far away including from the sea and sailors used to navigate by it.
You can hike to the top for a fabulous view. You can see the ocean and all the way to the Oki Islands.
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